Sewing Project: Scallops in Cotton and Steel (Advance 7831) | Mint Green Sewing Machine: Sewing Project: Scallops in Cotton and Steel (Advance 7831)

Thursday, August 21, 2014

Sewing Project: Scallops in Cotton and Steel (Advance 7831)


Hi guys, long time no see! I haven't posted for awhile but that doesn't mean I haven't been busy sewing. Today I wanted to share one of my latest projects- a vintage Advance pattern made up in some pretty Cotton and Steel lawn!



   I'm usually not one to shop for vintage patterns online, since I already have such a ridiculously large stash of them already that I have yet to make. But when I was searching for a wedding dress pattern I came across this pattern on Ebay and I just had to buy it- I love the scalloped neckline and the fact that it was already my size and wouldn't require a bunch of grading.

I'd been eying this mint green lawn ever since I saw the some sneak peeks of the Cotton and Steel collection online, so I knew it would be one of the few fabrics I would allow myself to splurge on. It's really pretty in person as well and has a nice, lightweight feel that's perfect for a summer dress.

I ended up making a few different changes to the pattern. For one, you can see that I took off the sleeves. I had made the dress with the short gathered sleeves in the pattern photo and even spent some time adjusting them to fit, but once I had the dress together I felt like the sleeves kind of detracted from the scallop neckline detail and vice-versa. I think it would be cute to have either one of those design details but both on the same dress ended up being too much, so I opted to have a sleeveless dress and finished the armholes with some bias binding. I also changed the skirt. The one in the pattern was cute, but it consisted of eight separate gored pieces and I was pretty sure I wasn't going to have enough fabric if I did it that way. So I drafted my own simple flared skirt to go with the bodice using this simple method. I like how it turned out and the fact that, once again, the simplicity wouldn't detract from the scalloped neckline.

I ended up having to move the darts down on this pattern to fit properly (thanks to my sewing teacher for pointing that out!). That was the first time I had done this particular alteration and it really helped the fit on this dress. I used the method shown here and it was surprisingly simple. I was debating if I should have tried a full bust adjustment as well. I've never done one so I wasn't so sure. The dress fits my bustline but there is a teensy bit of extra room in the armholes. What do you more experienced sewists think? Should I try that next time?

 Pattern: Advance 7831 (vintage)
Fabric: main: Stampede Lawn in Mint by Sarah Watts for Cotton and Steel
lining: lightweight white muslin
 Size: 18 1/2  Bust 38 (vintage sizing)
 Alterations: Shortened hem by 4 inches, omitted sleeves, added full lining (rather than just a facing) and fusible interfacing on the lining around the scallops

I wore it for the first time to the Madonna Inn for some breakfast, so of course I had to take some photos! Have you ever been there? It's kitschy and adorable and reminds me of my grandma Mary Lou, who had a similar love of pink, roses, angels, and general maximal-ism in decorating.





Thanks for stopping by!

11 comments:

  1. It turned our so beautiful! Those scallops can be hard to sew and you totally nailed it!

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  2. Agree! Your scallops look beautiful, and it's such a pretty dress. And THAT RESTAURANT! I wanna go. It looks totally amazing.

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    1. Thank you Claire! Yes, you should definitely check out the Madonna Inn if you're ever in the area. It's a really unique hotel with lots of really cool themed rooms.

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  3. So beautiful and looks great on you

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  4. I love that you made up that pattern. I have that one and made it once before, but gave it a different skirt. I'd been thinking of making it again, but wasn't sure what the skirt in the pattern actually looked like. Anyway, yours looks lovely, so you've convinced me I do need to make it.

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    1. Oops! I forgot to mention that I re-drafted the skirt too! So no, this is not the one in the pattern, which has lots of gores. I didn't think I would have enough fabric if I did the gored skirt so I drafted a simple flared skirt for this one. I'll fix the info in the post!

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  5. I saw this on the Hawthorne Threads newsletter. So cute! Great pairing of the color and scallop detail. As for the FBA, I might try it if I were you as the dress seems to pull or be a bit tight on the high bust. This doesn't mean it doesn't look good. It looks fabulous. But I think the fit and comfort would be optimized with the FBA.

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  6. Just saw the Hawthorne Threads newsletter and thought - hey I've seen that dress before! Well done on making it international ;)

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  7. Clever amendments you made. I love how your dress turned out - you look really great in it. Now on the hunt for on of these patterns to make one for my daughter.

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